Vilcabamba, the dreamy little town in the mountains of southern Ecuador, is run by foreigners seeking eternal youth -- Americans, Dutch, Israelis, French, Chileans, Argentineans. Young, long-haired, barefoot, vegan couples, well-to-do retirees, massage therapists, former cops who can live here on $600 a month. Then, there are the locals, and the old-timers, who've sold much of their land over to them and can't always make sense of their lifestyle. This was once part of the Inca trail; now I hear they call it the "Gringo Trail". This feature will be published by Smithsonian Journeys Magazine later this Spring, in collaboration with Ecuadorean photographer, Santiago Arcos.